BJ-09. Touch Properties and Comfort Performance of Structurally Innovative Knit Denim Fabrics for Scalable Manufacturing

Abstract

Knit denim has emerged as a substitute for traditional woven denim, offering greater versatility, improved moisture management, superior elasticity, cost effectiveness, and enhanced thermo-physiological comfort. However, existing research gives limited insight into how engineered knit structures, particularly double-jersey constructions, can address both the stiffness and limited ventilation of woven denim and the durability inadequacies of single-jersey knit denim. To close this gap, the study compares the structural, tactile, and comfort performance of one double-jersey derivative (DJD) with three single-jersey derivatives: triple miss diagonal (SJD-TMD), double miss diagonal (SJD-DMD), and single miss diagonal (SJD-SMD). These four knit denim structures were manufactured with indigo-dyed cotton and elastane-covered polyester yarns and evaluated for moisture transport, breathability, thermal behaviour, and tactile response through Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) and results were analysed statistically. The findings revealed that the DJD structure exhibited the highest wicking performance (14.0 cm lengthwise and 15.0 cm width wise), the more thermal resistance (0.12608 m²·K/W), and superior compressibility and stretch behaviour. The single-jersey derivatives provided distinct functional advantages: SJD-TMD demonstrated balanced structural compactness, SJD-SMD offered comparatively smooth surface with controlled stretch characteristics, and SJD-DMD achieved the highest air permeability (110 cm³/s/cm²).These results establish double-jersey knit denim as a structurally optimal process for creating denim-based products that are thermoresponsive, comfortable, and durable. Additionally, the adjustable behaviours of the SJD variants provide designers and manufacturers with a flexible foundation for developing knit denim solutions tailored to specific application requirements.